From: Rock climbing By arnoilgner Compilation: Justine
We are full of power when climbing, but we often waste it because of improper behavior. By understanding how we waste our energy, we can reduce waste and better focus on our immediate goals.
You are seven feet above the last point of protection and three feet from the next point of protection. You feel powerful, but when you climb above the protection point and have reached the limit, you feel that strength is losing and your arms are swollen and frustrated. All the worries and doubts come together. what happened? Why do you feel powerless at the vanguard limit?
Your strength is limited. The way you treat it will determine your climbing performance. Is it used or lost? Focus your attention on the current situation and use your power completely to increase the level of climbing. The act of wasting power is called the loss of power.
Here are a few common power drains:
1. Reaction. Is your power used to react? "I've had a swollen arm, above the point of protection - I need to fall." Or, your strength is used to consider what needs to be done to continue climbing. "Wait a minute, don't react. Do I really need to drop? Is my arm really swollen so that I can't climb three more feet? Is it dangerous to fall?" To avoid losing power, watch your reaction, and stop This reaction. Then refocus on what you need to do to continue climbing.
2. Negative self-talk. Is your power used for self-criticism? "The arm swells again, and you can't climb it. You're a useless guy - always falling when you're scared." Or, your strength is used to consider what you need to continue climbing. "Wait a minute, stop. It doesn't help me to climb." To avoid losing power, be careful about this negative self-talk and stop it. Then refocus on what you need to do to continue climbing.
3. Wait and see. Do you waste power because you want to climb differently or want it to be what you want? "I hope this hand is a bit bigger. I hope it can be red." Or, can you accept what it was originally like? "I don't want this hand to be a bit bigger - on the contrary, what is the best way to grab this little point? I wouldn't want to red-let this route - on the contrary, what needs to be done to complete this route? If I focus on how to climb, I will increase the odds of red knockout.†To avoid losing power, accept this route and focus on what needs to be done to climb.
Your strength is limited. So, focus your attention on the current situation, that is, what needs to be done to climb and use your power completely. If you indulge in this self-limiting behavior, you will lose power in vain. When the power is lost, your arms will swell and you will not be able to do your best. Stop the reaction, self-criticism, and hopeful behavior. This saves the power for the time it takes.
Some experiences of Liufeng51 add:
1) Process-oriented, reduce stress; enjoy the climbing process without having to care about the result. The "rock dancers" who perform well on the precipice are often guided by process rather than result-oriented. Process-oriented “rock dancers†do not feel any pressure on climbing, and climbing without pressure will naturally save a lot of effort, and they will dare to take risks and break through difficult routes. They often even dare to do Dyno at long distances. .
2) Treat the crash as a free carnival. If it is safe to fall, then go ahead and be afraid. Long-distance fall, it is a free carnival! Enjoy the moment well. To reduce the fear of falling, you will find that each step of climbing is so confident and powerful.
3) Build confidence and climb with a positive attitude. Positive emotions often inspire strong forces. Difficult points before focusing on the successful and authentic experience of the past. I can! To smile at themselves, positive incentives will allow the nervous system to react quickly, reduce negative pressure, and gain greater strength. A negative attitude will have a negative impact. If you have a falling idea, then you will quickly exhaust, and 80% will fall.
4) Control your breathing. A good and effective breathing method will allow the body to obtain a greater supply of oxygen, quickly absorb accumulated lactic acid with the circulation of blood, thus relieving the performance of exhaustion; bad breathing will make the muscles quickly fatigue or even stiff, so that they can not catch the rock And fall. Different phases of the line need to adjust different breathing patterns. For example, before the difficulty of deep breathing to relieve pressure accumulation of force, the difficulty of the big scorpion exhaled breath to increase strength, easy to smooth and regular breathing control climbing rhythm, etc., need to carefully understand.
5) Imagine rehearsal, smooth climbing with the fastest speed, and reduce the waste of power. Before starting the climb, try to imagine every detail in the climbing process, especially the difficult point. Imagine your body is climbing on the rock wall, what you see, what you grasp, how to hang fast, imagine your fingers firmly hold the two-finger hole, biceps began to shrink quickly, different Side high, and then locked up to pull up the body, the top of the knee twisted to give pressure, your breathing is getting more and more rapid in the difficult place, and even feel the palms sweat, in a shout, you decisively shot enough The small protrusions in the distance ... engraved these images into the mind, and the richer the details, the better. When you really climb, you will find that you have climbed as smoothly as you can, and you're done in one go, even if you don't feel it difficult to unknowingly break through.
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