Rock climbing shoes evaluation
* LaSportiva
LaSportiva is a renowned Italian shoe manufacturer specializing in the production of climbing and outdoor footwear. Its product line is very wide, from Himalayas hiking boots, hiking shoes, casual shoes to rock climbing shoes and so on. LaSportiva has a long tradition of leather shoes production. Its climbing shoes basically use leather as the main material, and the shoes use the famous Viberam rubber as the sole. Friction is better and more durable. The most important feature of the product is exquisite craftsmanship, which is meticulous in cutting, sewing and gluing, and is very comfortable to wear.
LaSportiva Cobra
Slipper-style elastic mouth, arched soles, big toe twist. Cortex, the sole has some hardness, sensitivity and support performance is more average, suitable for beginners to masters of all levels of enthusiasts, is focused on technical climbing shoes, suitable for competitive climbing, bouldering and artificial rock wall.
LaSportiva's Mythos
This is a shoe with a history of 12 years. In today's fast-growing era, it is almost a myth like its name. Tied, arched soles but the curvature is not large, the distortion is not serious, relatively flat. The cortex, which has a thick midsole, is a versatile shoe that is suitable for athletic climbing, cracks, bouldering, and artificial rock walls. Its lace system has a unique design. The shoelace loops around from the heel so that the heel lock is particularly strong and does not easily come off.
* Five.Ten
Five.Ten is an American company that specializes in climbing shoes. Five.Ten (5.10) symbolizes the development of rock climbing. Decades ago, 5.10 was seen as the limit of people's ability to climb, and with the development of equipment and sports itself, 5.10 is now considered a threshold for beginners and advanced individuals. This relatively young American brand is full of vigor and innovation. Every year, it launches a large number of new products, many of which are produced in China and South Korea. The most prominent of the Five.ten is its Stealth C4 rubber. Personally, I personally believe that it is the rubber with the best overall performance. This rubber has great friction, moderate hardness, and is also more durable.
Dragon of Five.Ten
It is a rock climbing shoe for athletic purposes. Velcro, arched soles. Thanks to the use of synthetic materials, it is soft and not easily deformed; the soft upper makes the toes move freely; the sole is soft and the very curved arch makes it ideal for high angle elevations and eaves. This shoe is not suitable for ordinary beginners and intermediate enthusiasts. The composite material has poor air permeability and is rather lame.
Anasazi Laceup of Five.Ten
This is also a legendary shoe. Although its history is not long, it can often be seen in various media on its slender pink figure. Lacing, synthetic materials, arched soles, moderate soft and hard soles, good sensitivity and support, this shoe is more suitable for stepping small points than Dragon, so it is more suitable for difficult granite climbing, and Dragon is more suitable for artificial rock wall . Its squat type is very comfortable. It is a technical climbing shoe that combines versatility and is suitable for athletic climbing and bouldering.
* MadRock
This is a company registered in the United States, specializing in the production of rock climbing related products. MadRock and 5.10 have deep roots, and the products are mainly based on domestic production, and the prices are relatively affordable. One of MadRock's partners, Young Chu, a Korean-American of American nationality, is an old friend of Beijing rock climbing enthusiasts. He is committed to the development of rock walls around Beijing and has built a number of new routes of high quality and fun; apart from climbing together Climbing, people often communicate together and listen to him tell stories about 30 years of climbing experience, from the scenic Yosemite valley to the wild and desolate Pamir plateau, and even the world's top climbers dare to get involved in the Patagonia plateau. It is indeed Fascinating.
MadRock's name for its new rubber is called MadRubber, which is a bit of an extreme material, just as it has its name. MadRubber rubber has a strong friction, rubber texture is very soft and sticky, adhesion is good but wear is very fast, suitable for a high level of enthusiasts. If the rock climber has excellent footwork, this shoe glue will make you even more prosperous; otherwise if the footwork does not work, the life span of the shoe will be very short.
MadRock Mugen
This is a Velcro shoe, arched sole, synthetic material. A lot of new designs have been adopted, which are quite different from traditional climbing shoes. In order to overcome the weakness of the rubber soft, thick rubber is used along the outer sole of the toe, and the sole of the foot is relatively thin, which is not only suitable for climbing sensitive large elevation angles and frictional surface courses, but also can provide enough for the small granite course. Support. The corrugated undulations of the shoe soles are more stable with the technique of the heel hook and are less likely to slip. The hook-and-loop fasteners are located on the side of the instep rather than the traditional front, giving a similar softness and freedom to slipper-like rock shoes, but with sufficient fixing power. Suitable for competitive routes, bouldering and artificial rock climbing.
* Scarpa
Is also an excellent Italian shoe manufacturer, it also produces almost all types of outdoor shoes, and even includes a variety of styles of ski boots. In the case of climbing shoes alone, the style is not as varied as LaSportiva and 5.10, but several of its shoes are very distinctive, shoe type development is earlier, but due to outstanding performance, there is no big change in a long time, just details Sexual changes, unlike 5.10, introduce new styles every year. This may be related to its tradition as an old European brand, and its exquisite craftsmanship is also one of the outstanding features.
Dominator straps, arched soles, thin midsole provide some support while also being sensitive enough. The toes are curved downwards and inwards to a large extent, and the ability to climb elevation routes and small points is strong. Suitable for middle and senior rock climbers, athletic climbing, bouldering and artificial rock walls.
* Boreal
It is a famous outdoor footwear manufacturer in Spain and also produces a variety of products such as high mountain boots, walking shoes and rock climbing shoes. Spain currently has the world's largest 5.14+ route and rock climbers. Their overall level on the Limestone Athletics route has already stunned rival France and has become one of the two strong players in athletic rock climbing. In such an excellent environment, Boreal's products also have excellent performance. In addition, due to market and brand reasons, Spain's products have a relatively strong price competitiveness compared with Italy's. Boreal has invested heavily in the production of climbing shoes. It has a strong product testing and public relations team. Yuji Hirayama, the 3rd former world champion of the year, is one of the top climbers sponsored by Boreal.
Zen is a Velcro shoe, arched sole, and leather. Zen has a harder midsole and provides better support. The edge of the shoe's sole is more "sharp" and is suitable for small spots and holes. Suitable for use by senior rock climbers, especially suitable for climbing courses on granite boulders and limestone.
* Trango
Trango differs from the European and American manufacturers specializing in the production of footwear mentioned above. Its products cover almost all areas of technical climbing, in addition to shoes, as well as textiles, ice climbing equipment (ice, crampons, etc.), rock climbing equipment (various Rock plugs, metal appliances, etc.) This is an emerging climbing equipment manufacturer and an international manufacturer registered in South Korea and the United States, but most of the products are produced in South Korea.
In the past few years, due to the geographical advantages of South Korea, some of the brand's products were able to enter the Chinese market earlier. Many rock climbing enthusiasts in Beijing started climbing on Trango's shoes. The initial product has almost no choice, performance and price are unsatisfactory, but it is better than nothing. In recent years, European and American products have landed on the domestic market. Trango's climbing shoes are only “sideline†and naturally cannot compete with professional footwear manufacturers. . However, as far as the author's experience is concerned, although most of the shoes are not attractive, there is one that stands out from the crowd and still has some value. This is Trango's early product, Classic.
Classic is a high-top lace-up climbing shoe. Called "Classic", it does use a lot of "traditional" designs, and it is also best suited to Trad Climbing, which uses the crack system and its own climbing method of protection. At the bottom, there is a thicker midsole, leather, and a lining. Because of crack climbing, many techniques for using Foot Jaming, the toes and the instep are subject to many hardships, and this shoe has good protection. The high gang helps protect the ankles, and it also has certain warmth properties, which can even be used in colder seasons. The lack of sensitivity of the shoes is not suitable for competitive and bouldering. The performance of the shoe glue is general and friction is acceptable, but it is more durable.
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